Tag: Grasmere

Fairfield Circular from Grasmere via Seat Sandal | Birkett FAR 4 | Graham’s Guides

A moderately long walk that takes in Fairfield one of the higher Lake District peaks (No.13 in Wainwright’s List). On a good day the views are spectacular.

Graham’s Walks Vitals

  • Distance: 6.4 miles/10.3 km
  • Elevation: 3195 ft/972 m
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Start: Lay-by on A591
  • Graham’s Cafe: This walk starts just outside Grasmere where you will find Mathilde’s Cafe and Lucia’s (awaiting a guide)
  • Classification: Birkett, Wainwright

The Map

The Area

This area is steeped in local folklore. Part way around the route it passes close to Grisedale Tarn which plays a significant part in the story of a battle supposed to have occured around 945 AD. A little further out of Grasmere towards Thirlmere the A591 splits into two with a large pile of stones between. This is supposed to mark the falling place of Dunmail, the last king of Rheged in a battle with the Anglo-Saxon King Edmund, grandson to Alfred the Great.

This story is set in that time of British history which is post the Roman Empire and there’s no clear overall ruler of the islands that we now call Britain. Rheged was occupied by the Britons at the time as was most of the west of England, Wales and south western Scotland. The Anglo-Saxon’s were the incomers to this part of the country.

According to the folklore, Dunmail is killed and his sons have their eyes gouged out to stop them being a problem in the future, but the king’s crown is not captured. A group of elite men take the crown and flee up what is now known as Raise Beck to the Grisedale Tarn and deposit the crown there. Here, in echoes of the King Arthur legends, the crown is waiting for the next king to come and claim it. There’s a lot more to this story, which is already eloquently covered here.

While we are talking King Arthur, let’s move on to Stone Arthur near the end of the route. The rocky outcrop at the peak of Stone Arthur is known as Arthur’s Seat. There may be a connection to the legendary king, but just as likely is that “Arthur” sounds similar to a word meaning “leader” in old English. It’s not the only place in the Lake District where Arthur pops up.

Stone Arthur doesn’t really belong on either the Wainwright or Birkett lists as it’s not really a summit it’s more of a rocky outcrop from Great Rigg; its prominence from Grasmere is what gets it listed.

Stone Arthur is sometimes included in the Fairfield Horseshoe route, this is a significant extension as it’s a 656 ft/200 m descent and re-climb.

This route includes four Birketts and Wainwrights: Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Great Rigg and Stone Arthur.

The Walk

In my guides to Birkett walks I’ve tried to stay close to the walk as described in Complete Lakeland Fells. It’s not always possible, but I try. On this route I’ve made a couple of changes, at the beginning and at the end.

At the beginning Birkett suggests parking on the verge near to the entrance of Mill Bridge Lane on the A591. There are a couple of places you could still conceivably park here, but most of it I no longer available due to “police notice” signs. To avoid encouraging you to break the law I’ve shifted the start a bit further along the A591, nearer to Grasmere, where there is a lay-by and much more verge parking on a straight piece of road. A word of caution though, park on a grassy verge with care they are muddy (as the van that parked behind me found out).

Because I’ve moved the start I’ve also moved the route down from Stone Arthur at the end of the walk. I did try to follow Birkett’s description of the route down, but it’s not on any of the maps I could see, nor could I see it on the ground. The alternative route down is straightforward to follow, but is also significantly more popular.

There is another change at the start of the walk. Birkett describes the obvious route up Seat Sandal, but also says that it’s blocked by a gate marked “private.” The gate to the obvious route up is no longer marked “private” and hence that’s the route I’ve taken.

The Ascent of Seat Sandal

From the verge on the A591 head towards the Travellers Rest on the roadside, beyond which you’ll cross over Mill Bridge. Just a short way beyond is a lane to the right. There are coast-to-coast route signs at the start.

Follow the lane up the hill until you can see the path up the ridge of Seat Sandal which you access through a gate to the left.

The path to the top is quite well defined, passing through a couple of gates on the way.

The top of Seat Sandal is defined by a cairn with a nearby stone shelter.

Seat Sandal to Fairfield

Continue in the same direction beyond the summit and the path ahead will become clear. The path follows the route of a now dilapidated wall. On a good visibility day you will see Grisdale Tarn slightly to the left and the impending ascent of Fairfield ahead.

Before you can ascend Fairfield you first need to descend to Grisedale Hause a steep drop of about 500 ft/150 m.

The ascent of Fairfield is similarly steep and mostly on gravel. It’s not technically difficult, it’s just steep. The route starts by following the same wall, but veers off to the right as you ascend.

There are several stone shelters at the top of Fairfield which makes it a great place for a refreshment stop. From the summit you can see a huge amount of the Lake District peaks with particularly good views across to the Helvellyn massif.

Fairfield to Great Rigg

The route to Great Rigg is south of the Fairfield summit on a wide well trodden path.

Great Rigg to Stone Arthur

Beyond the Great Rigg summit is a path off to the right to Stone Arthur.

Stone Arthur is defined by a prominent set of rocks with glorious views across Grasmere.

The Descent from Stone Arthur

Continue the path down until it becomes a lane which comes out onto a road. This road is a loop off the A591, pick the direction that will take you back to your transport.

Alternatives and Extensions

One huge alternative to this route is the Fairfield Horseshoe which is a completely different walk and will be covered at some other point under the Birkett label of FAR 3. The Fairfield Horseshoe route shares a couple of peaks (Fairfield, Great Rigg) with this one, but is a very different walk.

You can miss Seat Sandal out if you want to by heading up to Grisedale Hause via the coast-to-coast route. This will make the walk shorter but you’ll still need to make the steep ascent of Fairfield.

This route can be started from Grasmere village. This adds to the length of the route without adding any particular interest.

The Coast Guard to Coast signs and the route up
The initial lane
Through this gate
Ascend through this gat
This is Stone Arthur which is the route down
Look back at the ascent
Summit of Seat Sandal
The route down from Seat Sandal along the wall, with views of the route up Fairfield
I said it was steep and gravel.
A look back at Seat Sandal
The summit of Fairfield
Plenty to see
The route to Great Rigg
The summit of Great Rigg
First glimpse of the route to Stone Arthur on the ridge in the middle
The route down to Stone Arthur
First glimpse of Stone Arthur beyond this somewhat odd little wall
This is all there is to Stone Arthu from the summit
The route down towards Grasmere
Time for some traversing
Make sure you head to the left
Down here to the lane
Stone Arthur from below

Mathilde’s, Grasmere | Graham’s Guide

A great place to sit and enjoy the ambiance with an excellent coffee and an exquisite cake.

Graham’s Guidelines* Rating (1 to 5)
Coffee4*
Food5*
Conversation3*
People Watching5*

Grasmere has several excellent cafes and is, thankfully, devoid of corporate establishments.

Mathilde’s is on the same site, and shares the building with the Heaton Cooper Studio which is itself a Lake District icon. It also has the advantage of being on the route for several great walks from Grasmere. It’s right next to Easedale Road which is on the route of both the Helm Crag and the Sourmilk Gill/Easedale Tarn routes.

The decor of the cafe is heavily influenced by the Heaton Cooper artwork with prints on the wall, in the colour pallet of the furniture and even in the print on the light shades.

There’s a good seating area outside, but my favourite seat is right next to a large window with a view across the fells towards Stone Arthur and Rydal Fell.

Mathilde’s is named after the Norwegian wife of Alfred Heaton Cooper the patriarch of the artistic Heaton Cooper dynasty. Mathilde’s Scandinavian roots are also reflected in the menu at the cafe – here can’t be many places in the Lake District that offer smoked trout with the brunch menu. They do also serve Cumberland sausages and bacon.

The cakes at Mathilde’s are exquisite and just right for an end of walk celebration. This isn’t the place for giant slabs of cake, but is the place to possibly experience something a little different.

The coffee is good, serving Carvetii which is roasted in Threlkeld outside Keswick to the north.

Mathilde’s is an excellent place for people watching, particularly if you convince the people you are with to let you have a seat overlooking Moss Parrock, the small square opposite the cafe. Grasmere is a wonderfully eclectic mix of people on most days.

There are the walks, like myself, who are only passing through the village or stopping for a short refreshment break. Many of the walkers are families with plenty of children being chivied along by parents, promising a cafe stop on their return from whichever route that has been chosen.

The village is also a regular on the coach tours frequented by an older clientele. Last time I was sat at Mathilde’s there was a moment when everyone outside appeared to be walking slowly. It was only on closer inspection I realised that it was a squadron of zimmer frames making their way to somewhere in formation.

Grasmere, mainly because of its Wordsworth connections, is also a favourite of groups from more eastern countries. When I see the volume of photographs being taken I do feel sorry for the friends who will have to look through them on their return.

There are many cycling routes that pass through Grasmere making it a favourite of the lycra-clad-two-wheel-gangs.

The area also has a reputation as a great place for a romantic get-away, last time I was in Mathilde’s there was a couple for whom that was the case, although, from the conversation all was not going quite to plan.

Mathilde’s is definitely worth sitting a while.

I’ve marked this one a 3* for conversation, but that’s only because I was in there on my own. Although, having said that, I do quite like talking to myself.

Mathilde’s Cafe,
Heaton Cooper Studio,
Grasmere,
Ambleside LA22 9SX

Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/KNd1VXrheTgpt8oY9

Enjoying the Scandinavian vibe with some Carvetii coffee

Helm Crag, Gibson Knott, Calf Crag Circular from Grasmere | Graham’s Guides

A beautiful moderate ridge walk with views across to many of the Lake District larger mountains.

Graham’s Walks Vitals

The Map

  • OS Maps Route: 🗺️
  • GPX Download: 📁

The Area

Helm Crag, while not one of the highest peaks in the Lake District, is one of the better known ones. The rocky outcrop that sits at the end of the ridge has a shape that provokes several nicknames. The shape of the outcrop has provoked popular names the Lion and Lamb and The Old Woman Playing the Organ depending on where you are viewing it. I have no idea why it’s an Old Woman the shape isn’t that specific, the Lion and Lamb reference is from the Bible and makes sense from certain directions. While this rock formation is distinctive, it’s not the summit, that’s a bit further along.

This walk starts from the valley where it can be quite sheltered. Although the ridge is quite low, it can be very exposed even if the weather in the valley feels benign. I recommend that you take extra clothing in anticipation of this.

We are starting this walk from Red Bank car park in Grasmere. On this occasion I decided to pick some bagging up at Lucia’s on the way through the village – the choice, sweet-chilli sausage roll and a raspberry blondie, both were excellent.

(Bagging: is a Cumbrian term for a packed lunch.)

This walk takes in three Wainwrights (Helm Crag, Gibson Knott and Calf Crag). There is a fourth available at Steel Fell if you fancy a variation. This extended route is also known as the Greenburn Horseshoe and is traditionally done the other way around, starting on Steel Fell. I’d recently been up Steel Fell on a different route so chose the beauty of Far Easedale.

The Walk

Grasmere to Helm Crag

Leave Red Bank Car Park and head through Grasmere aiming for Easedale Road via Broadgate. Broadgate is directly opposite the entrance to the car park. Follow Easedale Road past the Glenthorne Quaker Centre, then past the entrance to The Lancrigg. The Lancrigg sometimes offers parking which can be a great alternative for this walk.

Further along the road you will come to a small gathering of houses. This is where the road ceases to be tarmac and where we need to depart from it. At the end of the tarmac, the lane continues straight-on, but there is also a lane off to the right, up an incline. A short way along this lane it will veer to the left and then there is a bridleway to the right. This should have a footpath post pointing you towards Helm Crag.

Follow this path to the top of the crag. This part of the path is well marked and stepped in places. It does zig-zag a bit, but the main route is clear.

The rocky outcrops along the top of Helm Crag are dramatic, but I don’t recommend climbing them unless you have particular skills.

Helm Crag to Calf Crag via Gibson Knott

From this point on this is a ridge walk until we get beyond Calf Crag. There are a few paths off to either side, but the main path is the one we are going to travel.

The summit of Gibson Knott isn’t very distinct if that kind of thing matters to you, but it did make for a great place to stop and eat my bagging.

Calf Crag to Stythwaite Steps

From Calf Crag head down hill following the same ridge route. Once you’ve descended a little you’ll notice a path off to the left heading down into the valley and following the route of Far Easedale Gill. This path will take you all the way down to the path that started your Helm Crag ascent. The path crosses the stream a couple of times as you descend. If you are close to the stream you won’t be far wrong.

You’ll find that the number of people diminishes the further away from Grasmere you walk. A few people make it to the top of Helm Crag, very few make it up Gibson Knott. You are most likely to have Far Easedale to yourself until you get to the stepping stones and footbridge at Stythwaite Steps.

Stythwaite Steps to Grasmere

Beyond Stythwaite Steps the path soon becomes a bridleway.

The route back to your car simply retraces the route you’ve already travelled through Grasmere village.

Alternatives and Variations

As a ridge walk there aren’t too many variations to this walk.

You can add Steel Fell in and create the Greenburn Horseshoe. This is a good walk, but can get quite wet and muddy at the top after Calf Crag.

This walk can be done in either direction, my only caution to that is the descent from Helm Crag which includes quite a few steps. I prefer to walk up steps.

The walk can be shortened by descending from either side of the ridge between Helm Crag and Gibson Knott. There’s also the option to descend on the Greenburn side after Gibson Knott.

Heading out with Helm Crag on the right
The path to the top of Helm Crag
Looking back, with Grasmere behind
Continuing the ascent
Almost at the top of Helm Crag
The Lion and Lamb
The walk ahead to Calf Crag on the right, with the path down to the left
On the footbridge at Stythwaite Steps

Easedale Tarn Circular from Grasmere | Graham’s Guides

Join the romantics taking in the beautiful autumn colours of Easedale via the ingloriously named Sourmilk Gill.

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance5.1 miles
DifficultyModerate
Map🗺️
GPX📁
Graham’s CafeLucia’s Cafe + Bakehouse
Mathilde’s at The Heaton Cooper Studio

The Area

Areas of the Lake District are famous for different things. The names of the romantic poets, William Wordsworth, Dorothy Wordsworth and Samuel Taylor Coleridge are synonymous with Grasmere and Rydal. Sister and brother, Dorothy and William lived in several houses in the area including Allan Bank and Dove Cottage (both houses open to the public) and were regularly visited by other poets. William is famous for several poems including: I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud, To the skylark, and The sun has long been set. Dorothy is primarily remembered for her journals which give a fascinating insight into their life and are themselves poetic.

Dorothy, William, and his wife Mary are all buried at St Oswold’s church in the centre of the village. This medieval building occupies land that has housed places of worship since the seventh century.

Next to the entrance to St. Oswold’s you will find the much loved home of Grasmere Gingerbread. The gingerbread is a glorious unique confection, it’s not really a bread having a consistency which is a bit like a cross between a cake and a biscuit, it is delicious. There is regularly a queue stretching down the street, don’t let that put you off, the shop is very small inside.

This walk takes you past the Heaton Cooper Studios where you can view, and purchase, artwork from the famous Heaton Cooper family. The gallery was established by William Heaton Cooper to sell his distinctive landscapes, the cafe Mathilde’s is named after his mother. The distinctive Heaton Cooper style and colouring is most evident in the landscape in the autumn.

The name Grasmere probably means what is says “gras” coming from “gras” the Norse word for “grass” and “mere”; a “mere” being a type of lake. There is some speculation that “gras” could also refer to “grys” which is a young pig, but that feels like overcomplicating something with a more obvious answer.

The Walk

We are starting this walk from the Red Bank Car Park in Grasmere. It’s a smallish car park, but nicely hidden away making it less busy than the main car parks.

There is some uphill to this climb, but there isn’t any climbing, the most complicated part is negotiating the stepping stones around the bog on the way down.

From the car park head down Langdale Road, which is almost opposite the entrance. This will take you past Tweedie and onto Broadgate. Continue past the Heaton Cooper Studio and the left onto Easedale Road.

Just before Easedale Road you will see two of Graham’s Cafes; as part of the Heaton Cooper Studio is Mathilde’s Cafe, on the other side of the road is Lucia’s Coffee and Bakehouse. Both are great places to start and finish a walk, Lucia’s is particularly good for a packed lunch, Mathilde’s is more of a cozy wet winter lunch kind of place. I should note here though that the route that we are going to follow doesn’t come back into the village centre, but it’s only a short diversion to find your way back here.

Returning to our walk, follow Easedale Road until you reach Glenthorne Quaker Center and Guest House where you’ll notice a gate on the right which will take you off the road onto a path running parallel to it up to Goody Bridge.

A short way beyond Goody Bridge the road takes a right-hand turn and there’s a path going straight on over a footbridge.

The footbridge will take you onto a cobbled bridleway which will be your guide all the way to the tarn passing the waterfall of Sourmilk Gill as you go. If you are wondering why it is called Sourmilk Gill it’s likely down to the white frothy appearance of the water as it tumbles over the falls. At the main falls there’s a short path off to the right which takes you to the clear pool at the base and for much of the year you can use the large rocks in the beck as stepping stones. The waterfall pool can be a popular place for a dip in the summer, but the real wild swimmers tend to go in at the tarn. If you are planning a swim it’s worth noting that the tarn is at altitude and quite sheltered making it significantly colder than many other swimming spots nearby.

Continue up beyond the waterfalls to the tarn which has been a popular tourist destination for a very long time. As early as the 1870’s there was a hut alongside the tarn at about the point where you get the first views of the tarn from the path which served “a humble style of refreshments”. The hut continued its service into the 1930’s, but later fell into disrepair. Wainwright sketched its presence and noted “with every passing year the hut loses a few more stones and slates (and gains more autographs)”; its location is barely noticeable as you travel along our route today.

This is a walk of two halves, on the way up you are likely to be alongside quite a few other walker as they too travel this popular path, there will also be plenty of people using the same route to retrace their steps back to Grasmere. We will venture off this main path for our route down and it will feel like a completely different walk with very few fellow travellers and glorious secluded valley views.

We are only going as far as the tarn for this walk, you can use this same route to venture into the surrounding mountains, but I’ll cover those in other walks.

Our route down starts where the beck flows out of the tarn. There are several large stones allowing you to cross the stream onto a path running alongside the other bank. This path follows the stream for a little while and then skirts around a more boggy area. There’s no need to walk in the bog though as the path comprises a set of large flat-topped boulders. The boulders are quite well spaced, but you do have to watch your step.

The only slightly complicated navigation of this walk is just beyond the stepping stones section. It will feel like the natural way down should be to track to the right down the valley along the wall facing you. Thankfully someone has helpfully put a large “GRASMERE” with an arrow underneath it showing the correct direction, which is to the left away from Grasmere for a short while. As you head down you will come to footbridge across the beck, alongside Stythwaite Steps (“thwaite” is another Lake District word of Norse origin meaning clearing.)

The path from here meanders alongside the beck all the way back to Easedale Road. You’ll recognise where you are once to get to the footbridge where you left for Sourmilk Gill.

Rejoin the path alongside Easedale Road just beyond Goody Bridge, but instead of rejoining the road a little further along, continue on this path around the back of Glenthorne and into the grounds of Allan Bank. Follow the lane from Allan Bank until it meets the junction of Broadgate and Langdale Road. Head down Langdale Road to the car park.

Alternatives and Variations

Most of the alternatives and variations to this walk lead on to other walks. The first part of this walk is the same as a popular route up Helm Crag which I’ll cover as part of another guide, likewise for Tarn Crag. If you carry on beyond the tarn you are soon on your way up High Raise.

You can do a circular route around the back of the tarn as a bit of an extension, I’ve only done it once, it was wet and boggy but did give some wonderful views.

Any car park in Grasmere could be the start of this walk, you’ll just have to find your way to Easedale Road, and then back again.

Easedale Tarn (spot the swimmer)
Easedale Tarn in the Winter
The Path through Easedale
Sourmilk Gill
Sourmilk Gill
From the base of Sourmilk Gill
Through Easdale, with Sourmilk Gill in the distance
The start of Easdale Road (opposite) taken from Lucia’s