Graham’s Walks Vitals
- Distance: 6.4 miles/10.3 km
- Elevation: 3195 ft/972 m
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Map: 🗺️
- GPX: 📁
- Graham’s Cafe: This walk starts just outside Grasmere where you will find Mathilde’s Cafe and Lucia’s (awaiting a guide)
- Classification: Birkett, Wainwright
The Area
This area is steeped in local folklore. Part way around the route it passes close to Grisedale Tarn which plays a significant part in the story of a battle supposed to have occured around 945 AD. A little further out of Grasmere towards Thirlmere the A591 splits into two with a large pile of stones between. This is supposed to mark the falling place of Dunmail, the last king of Rheged in a battle with the Anglo-Saxon King Edmund, grandson to Alfred the Great.
This story is set in that time of British history which is post the Roman Empire and there’s no clear overall ruler of the islands that we now call Britain. Rheged was occupied by the Britons at the time as was most of the west of England, Wales and south western Scotland. The Anglo-Saxon’s were the incomers to this part of the country.
According to the folklore, Dunmail is killed and his sons have their eyes gouged out to stop them being a problem in the future, but the king’s crown is not captured. A group of elite men take the crown and flee up what is now known as Raise Beck to the Grisedale Tarn and deposit the crown there. Here, in echoes of the King Arthur legends, the crown is waiting for the next king to come and claim it. There’s a lot more to this story, which is already eloquently covered here.
While we are talking King Arthur, let’s move on to Stone Arthur near the end of the route. The rocky outcrop at the peak of Stone Arthur is known as Arthur’s Seat. There may be a connection to the legendary king, but just as likely is that “Arthur” sounds similar to a word meaning “leader” in old English. It’s not the only place in the Lake District where Arthur pops up.
Stone Arthur doesn’t really belong on either the Wainwright or Birkett lists as it’s not really a summit it’s more of a rocky outcrop from Great Rigg; its prominence from Grasmere is what gets it listed.
Stone Arthur is sometimes included in the Fairfield Horseshoe route, this is a significant extension as it’s a 656 ft/200 m decent and re-climb.
This route includes four Birketts and Wainwrights: Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Great Rigg and Stone Arthur.
The Walk
In my guides to Birkett walks I’ve tried to stay close to the walk as described in Complete Lakeland Fells. It’s not always possible, but I try. On this route I’ve made a couple of changes, at the beginning and at the end.
At the beginning Birkett suggests parking on the verge near to the entrance of Mill Bridge Lane on the A591. There are a couple of places you could still conceivably park here, but most of it I no longer available due to “police notice” signs. To avoid encouraging you to break the law I’ve shifted the start a bit further along the A591, nearer to Grasmere, where there is a lay-by and much more verge parking on a straight piece of road. A word of caution though, park on a grassy verge with care they are muddy (as the van that parked behind me found out).
Because I’ve moved the start I’ve also moved the route down from Stone Arthur at the end of the walk. I did try to follow Birkett’s description of the route down, but it’s not on any of the maps I could see, nor could I see it on the ground. The alternative route down is straightforward to follow, but is also significantly more popular.
There is another change at the start of the walk. Birkett describes the obvious route up Seat Sandal, but also says that it’s blocked by a gate marked “private.” The gate to the obvious route up is no longer marked “private” and hence that’s the route I’ve taken.
From the verge on the A591 head towards the Travellers Rest on the roadside, beyond which you’ll cross over Mill Bridge. Just a short way beyond is a lane to the right. There are coast-to-coast route signs at the start.
Follow the lane up the hill until you can see the path up the ridge of Seat Sandal which you access through a gate to the left.
The path to the top is quite well defined, passing through a couple of gates on the way.
The top of Seat Sandal is defined by a cairn with a nearby stone shelter.
Continue in the same direction beyond the summit and the path ahead will become clear. The path follows the route of a now dilapidated wall. On a good visibility day you will see Grisdale Tarn slightly to the left and the impending ascent of Fairfield ahead.
Before you can ascend Fairfield you first need to descend to Grisedale Hause a steep drop of about 500 ft/150 m.
The ascent of Fairfield is similarly steep and mostly on gravel. It’s not technically difficult, it’s just steep. The route starts by following the same wall, but veers off to the right as you ascend.
There are several stone shelters at the top of Fairfield which makes it a great place for a refreshment stop. From the summit you can see a huge amount of the Lake District peaks with particularly good views across to the Helvellyn massif.
The route to Great Rigg is south of the Fairfield summit on a wide well trodden path.
Beyond the Great Rigg summit is a path off to the right to Stone Arthur.
Stone Arthur is defined by a prominent set of rocks with glorious views across Grasmere.
Continue the path down until it becomes a lane which comes out onto a road. This road is a loop off the A591, pick the direction that will take you back to your transport.
Alternatives and Extensions
One huge alternative to this route is the Fairfield Horseshoe which is a completely different walk and will be covered at some other point under the Birkett label of FAR 3. The Fairfield Horseshoe route shares a couple of peaks (Fairfield, Great Rigg) with this one, but is a very different walk.
You can miss Seat Sandal out if you want to by heading up to Grisedale Hause via the coast-to-coast route. This will make the walk shorter but you’ll still need to make the steep ascent of Fairfield.
This route can be started from Grasmere village. This adds to the length of the route without adding any particular interest.























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