Sallows and Sour Howes above Kentmere Park | Birkett KEN 3 | Graham’s Guides

A lovely 7 miles walk, away from any crowds in a less visited valley to the south of the Lake District.

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance7.3 miles
DifficultyDifficult
Map🗺
GPX📁
Graham’s CafeYou drive past More? The Artisan Bakehouse, Staveley
ClassificationBirketts KEN 3

The Area

To the side of the main route into the Lake District, the A591, is the small town of Staveley and through its narrow streets you access a hidden gem of the Lake District, Kentmere a glorious valley on the southern edge of the National Park. Every day thousands pass by on their journey to the bright lights of the central Lakes favouring the car parks, cruises and high peaks. For those who prefer something quieter Kentmere is a fabulous, and accessible, choice if you are travelling from the south.

Some walking days are defined by fine weather and open vistas, others are dominated by low cloud and reduced visibility, the pictures in this post are from one of the latter days. For me, hiking is a state of mind, and each day gives you a set of choices. You can choose to make the best of the weather or to be frustrated that it isn’t something else. You can choose to complain that the fells aren’t very impressive, as was one of the few hikers I met, or you can see each summit as a goal reached. A good day hiking is a choice. Having said all of that, the clouds lifted a bit for the latter half of the walk and the views were spectacular.

The start of the walk is from the end of a lane above Browfoot. This is the recommended start point in the Birkett guidebook being commended as a way to avoid the parking congestion that can occur near to the church in Kentmere village. While this sounds like a sensible thing to do, the track above Browfoot is currently highly potholed and the parking options at the end of the lane are extremely limited. If you don’t want to take your chances at Browfoot you will see on the maps that there several routes to the start of the walk nearby including from Ings where there are more parking options. There are also several parking options on the side of the road to Kentmere near to the pottery entrance in the area which is marked as Philipson’s Wood on the OS Maps.

This walk is classified as KEN 3 by Bill Birkett in Complete Guide to Lakeland Fells.

The Walk

The start, and end, of this walk is on the bridleway from Hugill Hall to Kentmere Hall. The bridleway takes you through open moorland for a couple of miles until just before a good-sized stream from where you follow the fence to the left which becomes a wall.

I’ll describe some of the main features of this walk, but the reality is, you need to navigate this walk by the map and by what you see on the ground. There aren’t any nicely worn paths to follow for much of it and not too many distinguishable waypoints.

Once you leave the main bridleway you travel along a wall until it takes a turn to the right from where you head across open moorland to the top of Capple Howe. Capple Howe is so small that it doesn’t make it to the title of the walk in Complete Guide to Lakeland Fells.

From the top of Capple Howe you should be able to see one of the few waypoints, a small triangular shaped, wall enclosed, wood. The path to the top of Sour Howes is to the left of the wood. More open moorland takes you to the top of Sour Howes.

Sour Howes is in a few routes so from here the path does become a little more distinct following a fence around Moor Head and over a stile to the top of Sallows. The top of Sallows is marked by an Ordnance Survey trig-marker plate.

The paths away from the top of Sallows become even more distinct but following the theme of this walk we aren’t going to follow any of them. Our task is to head across open ground to meet up with the former access lane to the nearby quarry, this is now little more than a path but still quite distinguishable on the ground.

The quarry lane will take you down to the bridleway on which we started the walk. Turn right as you meet h bridleway and it will take you back to the stream and a set of stepping stones. From the stream walk the two miles back to your vehicle.

Alternative and Variations

One extension that looks sensible on the map would be to add in High Knott and the Williamson’s Monument which isn’t a Birkett, but it is in Wainwright’s Outlying Fells. The monument looks to have a great view across to Staveley, the lower Kentmere area and Morecambe Bay beyond. While you will see several routes on maps to the monument, the owner of the land does not appear to want anyone visiting. When I tried to follow the paths recently, I was met by a dry-stone wall topped with barbed wire and a sign telling me that I would be prosecuted if I tried to get to the monument. I decided that it wasn’t worth it, but others have chosen to trespass to get their tick as a point of principle.

Some days are just misty…
I suspect that there is a view beyond this tree, but not today
Even on the top it was misty
The trig-plate on Sallows
The view along Kentmere decided to make an appearance
The view south with just a glimmer of Morecambe Bay in the distance. The silver line in the middle is the route back.
Descending below the clouds
We even had some blue skies…
Walking the bridleway back
Walking the bridleway back

Top o’ Selside Circular from High Nibthwaite | Birkett OUT 3 | Graham’s Guides

Taking a walk on the quieter side of the Lake District. This route crosses open moorland where you are likely to be on your own with the fabulous views across the fells and over to Morecambe Bay.

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance4.8 miles
DifficultyDifficult
Map🗺
GPX📁
Graham’s CafeNearest is Bakehouse Born and Bread

The Area

If areas of the Lake District had a league table this one would be somewhere in the second or third tier, and it’s all the better for it.

I’ve covered several walks that are in premier league areas like Grasmere which are beautiful, but also visited by lots of people. These areas define most people’s perspective of the Lake District, and I’m happy for them, but there are significant areas of Cumbria that don’t get this treatment and today’s walk is in one of those areas.

High Nibthwaite is at the southern end of Coniston and on the less visited eastern shore.

There isn’t really anywhere to park in the hamlet, but there is a small unmarked car park just outside to the north. There is also a field opposite this small car park which occasionally gets recommissioned as a place to leave your car, although on the day I last visited the field was full of impressive white cows. You will need the RingGo app for the field, the small carpark is free. When I say that the small car park is unmarked I mean that there are no signs at its entrance, you can’t see where the cars are parked from the road, and the entrance is down a rough track which immediately makes you doubt that a car park could be at the end of it. There is a grey metal post, but it doesn’t have any signs on it and it is shown on the OS Map. Here’s the link to the location of the small car park, if you zoom in close on Google Maps satellite view you’ll see a car parked in it.

High Nibthwaite has its own artistic connections with Antony Gormley of Angel of the North and Another Place fame. At the edge of the hamlet is a house called The Stable at Lake End where Anthony visited in the 1980’s and where, in a field next to the boat house and quay he has left one of his famous iron sculptures looking out towards the Old Man of Coniston. It’s worth a visit to the sculpture and to take in the view at the quay by taking the footpath across the field (The footpath doesn’t go anywhere other than to the quay).

Much of this walk is across Bethecar Moor which is mostly trackless so you will need you map reading skills for this walk. The moor is a mixture of small rambling hills, gullies and bogs. There are marked paths on the map, but they aren’t as clearly defined on the ground. Don’t be fooled into thinking of this as a natural landscape though, like much of the Lake District this area has been shaped by people over a long time with some mining, coppicing, peat extraction and charcoal burning.

Near to the summit of the walk is Arnsbarrow Tarn which is a beautiful peaceful glacial tarn. The name “barrow” hints as the Bronze Age burial mounds nearby. People have been shaping this landscape for a very long time indeed.

This walk includes three Birketts – Stang Hill, Arnsbarrow Hill, and Top o’ Selside.

The name Top o’ Selside is a combination of Norse and English meanings. The Norse part Selside means seasonal pasture on a hillside, more Viking influence. The English part Top o’ says that it’s the highest point of.

The Walk

This is a medium length walk but I’ve marked it as difficult because of the need to navigate open moorland where the tracks are few and far between. In good weather the features are distinct, but in poor visibility it would be easy to become confused. Also, walking in this kind of open moorland is more tiring and slower going than on defined well marked tracks. The lack of tracks does give lots of opportunity to explore though.

We start this walk from the small unmarked carpark to the north of Coniston which is here. We are going to do this circular in an anti-clockwise direction, but you could do it the other way around. My choice of direction is solely down to a preference for coming down through the woods at the end rather than working my way up them at the beginning.

From the car park we head south along the road back into High Nibthwaite taking a short detour to visit the Gormley statue and to take in the views along the lake from the quay.

In the middle of the hamlet is a track off to left. This track is often used by off-road enthusiasts and mountain bikers, it forms part of our route down later on. For now, though, we are only following it for a short distance before heading along the path to the right along following route of a drystone wall to our right.

This path will take us along the route of Caws Beck which is in the woodland, to our right, and below the crags of Brock Barrow, on our left, to the farm at High Bethecar. This farm has fabulous views across the fells and Morecambe Bay but feels very isolated.

From High Bethecar we head out onto the moorland through a gate and along a track that steadily diminishes. We are looking for a fork in the path that takes us off to Stang Moss to the right. This is where you will need your map reading skills because it isn’t very clear on the ground where this fork is.

The route from Stang Moss to Arnsbarrow Hill is along a small ridge. If you are fortunate you can see the top of Arnsbarrow from Stang Moss and the route is almost straight there.

When we are picking our way along a route it’s easy to get engrossed in the few metres in front of us, be sure to lift your head and take a look around, this route has fabulous views.

Onward to Arnsbarrow Tarn which is worth a visit to take in the tranquility of it. You should be able to see the tarn from Arnsbarrow Hill. Work your way around the eastern side of the tarm up onto the Top o’ Selside.

The track down from the Top o’ Selside is probably the clearest part of this moorland part of the walk. The views across to the Old Man of Coniston are glorious on a good weather day. Part way along this part of our bimble you will start to see the bridleway that will form the next part of our exploring.

Once you’ve reached the bridleway turn left along it as it descends.

The last time I did this route there were two groups of off-road vehicles making their way up the hill. The noisy engines and tires felt like an invasion of privacy having been on my own in the quiet moorland. I can see why people would choose this route though, the views are fabulous.

The bridleway will eventually draw alongside a wood on the right and then a little further along there is a gate into the wood. There’s only really one path down through the woods back to the carpark. This wood is nicely isolated and you should watch out for wildlife, when I last visited I saw a woodcock, a bird I’m not sure I’ve ever seen before.

Extensions and Variations

This route is mostly across moorland and this makes for infinite possibilities and variations.

Near the beginning of the walk you can choose to branch off and climb Brock Barrow which would be quite steep. Even if you don’t climb up the front you can branch off the defined path to the left to get some early views of the surrounding hills. From there you can cross moor to High Light Haws before branching off to Stang Moss.

If you were really wanting to maximise the number of Birketts that you covered on this walk you would take the route from Top o’ Selside to Carron Crag which is the only other Birkett in the area. Doing this would more than double the length of the walk and I’m not sure would add much more interest.

The entrance to the small carpark
It’s a small carpark
Initial views across Coniston and the White Cows, this is the field which sometimes becomes a carpark
Antony Gormley was here
The view from the quay
High Bethecar
Out on the moors, managed to find a bit of a path
Arnbarrow Tarn
Arnbarrow Tarn
Top o’ Selside with Morecambe Bay glowing in the background
The views along Coniston and the Bridleway
The gate into the woods