Birkett – Graham Chastney

Sleddale Fell Circular from Sadgill Bridge, Longsleddale | Birkett SHA 5 | Graham’s Guides

A quiet walk in a less visited corner of the Lake District with glorious valley views, waterfalls, deep pools and survey towers.

Graham’s Walks Vitals

Distance: 6.3 miles/10.1 km
Elevation: 1778 ft/542 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Start: Sadgill Bridge
Graham’s Cafe: Not really, you could take a diversion to More? The Artisan Bakery, Staveley
Classification: Birkett, Wainwright

The Map

OS Maps Route: 🗺️
GPX Download: 📁

The Area

Sleddale Fell is in a lesser visited area of the Lake District hidden away at the end of Longsleddale a valley in the South East of the National Park, a little way north of Kendal.

In most places the valley name is compressed to a single word, Longsleddale, but in some it appears as two words, Long Sleddale. The Ordnance Survey has it both ways depending on the resolution of the map that you use, at 1:50K it’s Long Sleddale, at 1:25K it’s Longsleddale. I make this point simply to show that place names aren’t as concrete as some people would love them to be.

On your way into the valley you will pass Longsleddale Church, St. Mary’s, which is a glorious country church offering fabulous views along the valley. Opposite the church is the village hall and a public toilet; this is your last opportunity in the valley without going wild.

As well as being a beautiful secluded Lake District valley Longsleddale has a claim to fame. The valley is reported to be the inspiration behind Greendale in the TV show Postman Pat. I’m talking here about the pre-2017 version where it was one man and a black-and-white cat, since then Pat appears to have gained all sorts of technical abilities in his new role at the Special Delivery Service. John Cunliffe, the creator of the show, lived in nearby Kendal.

Longsleddale and part of our walk are also the route of the Haweswater Aqueduct taking water to Manchester. The aqueduct is featured in other Graham’s Guides including; River Lune and Lancaster Canal Circular from the Lune Aqueduct and Clougha Pike Circular from Riggs Lane. Directly on the route and just to the side of it we will pass several of the survey towers used in the construction of the aqueduct.

You will ascend Tarn Crag on this walk, which overlooks what is known as Greycrag Tarn. Greycrag Tarn feels like a bit of an overstatement. A tarn is normally a mountain lake or pond, but Greycrag Tarn is more of a permanently wet boggy area.

The name Longsleddale comes from three words – “long” “sledge” and “dale.”

It appears the “long” was added to distinguish this valley from Wet Sleddale near Shap.

For “sled” there are a couple of theories, I’ll let you decide which you prefer.

“Sled” is a shortened version of similar words to “sledge” in Old English and Old Norse. It highlights that this was a place where sledges were used to transport things which can be easier on steep slopes.

“Sled” could also be highlighting the U-shape of the valley. This is based on a similar word in Old English meaning glade, dell, or a strip of smooth, low-lying land between hills.

“Dale” means valley meaning that it’s not really necessary to call it Longsleddale valley, because that information is already in the name. There are variants of “Dale” in both Old Norse and Old English.

The Walk

Sadgill Bridge to the Ford

This walk starts from the end of the road in Longsleddale at Sadgill where the road becomes a metalled track and there is a stone bridge off to the left. There’s an area there to park several cars which is normally sufficient. I’ve visited on several occasions but never struggled to park.

There’s one route into Longsleddale which is a narrow track that winds its way alongside the River Sprint that you join from the A6, or through Burneside, to Garnett Bridge.

Once you’ve parked up it’s time to get back on the bridleway as it continues along the side of the river. There are some wonderful waterfalls and pools as you make your way up into the hills.

For nearly two miles the navigation is straightforward, just keep to the track. Having climbed for most of this distance you’ll pass through a gate and the path will level out. You’ll also cross a bridge. For most of the distance the river will have been on your left, there will be now be a stream on your right.

The Ford to Tarn Crag

On the OS Maps there is a ford shown across the stream and a path labelled Brownhowe Bottom. There should also be a Public Bridleway signpost showing Swindale Head and Wet Sleddale.

This is one of those situations where there are a few paths on the ground that all appear to go in a similar direction. In this case they are all heading to a very similar place which is a gate in a fence. Don’t go through the gate though, follow the route of the fence to the right as it heads up Tarn Crag.

The fence will lead you to a stile over another fence.

Beyond the stile you should see a path veering away from the fence to the right a little way before the fence makes a turn to the left. Take the path to the right. On a clear day you will soon be able to see the survey tower near to the summit of Tarn Crag.

The survey pillar isn’t the true summit of Tarn Crag that’s marked by a nearby cairn. The views are better from the tower though.

Tarn Crag to Harrop Pike

From the summit of Tarn Crag head back towards the fence along a well marked path around the east side of the tarn. Follow the fence for a while longer. You will descend a little and then ascend and as you do so the fence will turn at a right-angle to the left.

Continue to follow the fence around the corner on our way to Harrop Pike. This bit of the walk feels like a short diversion in order to get a tick.

Follow the line of the fence with it on your left, traverse another fence, continue a little while longer until you reach a stile. The true summit is across the stile and is marked by a cairn. Do whatever it is you do to tick off a summit.

Harrop Pike to Grey Crag

Retrace your steps back to the right angle in the fence from Harrop Pike.

Continue straight on and slightly to the left to the summit of Grey Crag. It’s only a short distance from the right-angle in the fence.

Grey Crag to Great Howe

From the summit of Grey Crag continue in the direction you had been going bearing to the right as you descend to a fence.

Traverse the fence via a stile and follow the path on the other side across what is becoming increasingly open moorland. There are several great views along Longsleddale in this section.

You may notice on the map a couple of places where is marked pillar to the left of the path. These are also survey towers for the aqueduct. The one near to the summit of Great Howe is easier to get to than the one further down near Brock Crag.

The summit of Great Howe isn’t particularly distinct.

Great Howe to Sadgill Bridge

The descent from Great Howe is a delightful meander down the steep sides of the valley. From the summit of Great Howe continue in the direction you had been going veering to the left and then to the right until you reach a stile in a fence.

This is one of the very few places on this walk where it’s important that you make the right navigational choice. Over the stile, head right. This may feel counter-intuitive.

The path will take you along the side of a wall, the wall being on your right. The path will take you to a glorious valley view before switching back left and down the valley side to a stile in a wall.

Beyond the wall, on most days, you will be able to see the bridge and your transportation beyond.

Cross the field to a gate in the wall near to the bridge. The gate is covered in more signs that most office kitchens.

Alternatives and Extensions

Honestly, there aren’t really any interesting alternatives on this walk. There’s nowhere that you can walk a little further and claim another summit or paddle in a tarn.

Perhaps the only thing you might choose to do is to continue up onto Gatesgarth Pass. You’d do that by missing out the ford over to Brownhowe Bottom. Near to the top of the path you’d take a path to the right and head to the summit of Branstree. From the summit of Branstree you’d then head south-east along a fence to the summit of Tarn Crag. It adds another summit, but Branstree is a much nicer walk with glorious views from the Haweswater side taking in Brown Howes, Selside Pike and High Howes.

You could do this walk in reverse, there are positives and negatives to either direction.

St. Mary's in Longsleddale (there's a public toilet here) — St. Mary’s in Longsleddale (there’s a public toilet here)

The car park and Sadgill Bridge from above

Following the fence to the top of Tarn Crag

Leave the fence and head to the summit of Tarn Crag

The survey tower near to the summit of Tarn Crag

Looking down onto Gatesgarth Pass from Tarn Crag

Greycrag Tarn, not really what you would expect from a tarn

Back following the fence. The tarn is on the right, Harrop Pike is to the left

The stile over to the summit of Harrop Pike

The survey tower off to the side of Great Howe

Jimmy and Grandad enjoying the view from Great Howe

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A moderate walk through beautiful Easedale and out onto the tops away from the more popular walking routes. The views are spectacular and even an option for a swim.

Graham’s Walks Vitals

Distance: 8.4 miles/13 km
Elevation: 2417 ft/736 m
Difficulty: Moderate
Start: Red Bank Car Park
Graham’s Cafes: This walk starts in Grasmere where you will find Mathilde’s Cafe and Lucia’s (awaiting a guide)
Classification: Birkett, Wainwright

The Map

OS Maps Route: 🗺️
GPX Download: 📁

The Area

This walk includes two fells that show the impact of Alfred Wainwright and his guides on people’s understanding of the area. Tarn Crag used to refer to the rocky outcrop overlooking the Easedale Tarn until AW decided to apply that label to the whole summit. Sergeant Man is a must have tick for anyone working their way through the 214 summits, but it’s not really a summit worthy of the status. AW’s logic was that it was a better summit than the taller High Raise behind it and to be fair to AW High Raise is a flat grassy prominence. Sergeant Man is definitely worth visiting, it’s an interesting rocky crag and the views are spectacular, despite its diminutive stature. Tarn Crag is also worth visiting, but the best views are a little way from the summit overlooking the tarn. You can’t actually see the tarn from the summit.

The name Sergeant Man is a bit of a mystery. Sergeant could be a corruption of another term or even a person’s name. There’s also a possibility it relates to the Anglo-French servient, meaning ‘to serve’, and highlighting its subservience to High Raise. Man is used in Cumbria dialect to refer to a man-made pile of stones or a prominent rocky pinnacle of which there are several examples across the Lake District including Old Man of Coniston, Skiddaw Little Man, and Helvelyn Lower Man.

There are a couple of places on this walk that are popular with wild swimmers and dippers. At the base of the main waterfall of Sourmilk Gill there’s a good sized dipping pool. Easedale Tarn is also a good spot, but mountain tarns require extra caution, they are always a few degrees colder than any other water.

The walk up to Easedale Tarn was very popular with the Victorians and even had a shop next to it. I’ve written more about this in the Easedale Tarn Circular from Grasmere route. This popularity continues today and rightly so, it’s beautiful. This route isn’t busy all the way though; once you branch away from the main path onto the Tarn Crag path you will find yourself alone.

The Walk

In Complete Lakeland Fells, Bill Birkett recommends parking at a car park on Easedale Road at grid reference NY 334080. There is no longer a car park at this location, or on Easedale Road at all, so I’ve shown this walk starting from Red Bank Car Park.

Grasmere to Sourmilk Gill

This part of the walk will be the busiest of the day.

From the car park head down Langdale Road, which is almost opposite the entrance. This will take you past Tweedie and onto Broadgate. Continue past the Heaton Cooper Studio and turn left onto Easedale Road.

Just before Easedale Road you will see two of Graham’s Cafes; as part of the Heaton Cooper Studio is Mathilde’s Cafe, on the other side of the road is Lucia’s Coffee and Bakehouse. Both are great places to start and finish a walk, Lucia’s is particularly good for a packed lunch, Mathilde’s is more of a place you go to as a reward at the end of the walk.

Returning to our walk, follow Easedale Road until you reach Glenthorne Quaker Centre and Guest House where you’ll notice a gate on the right which will take you off the road onto a path running parallel to Easedale Road up to Goody Bridge.

A short way beyond Goody Bridge the road takes a right-hand turn and there’s a path going straight on over a footbridge.

The footbridge will take you onto a cobbled bridleway which will be your guide all the way to the waterfall of Sourmilk Gill.

At the main falls there’s a short path off to the right which takes you to the clear pool at the base and for much of the year you can use the large rocks in the beck to explore. A word of caution though, these rocks can be slippy.

Continue on the path beyond the main waterfall until the ground levels out a bit. You should be able to see the ascending path of Tarn Crag on the other side of the beck; your task is to get across. When the river is low there are several stepping-stone options for a dry crossing. On the map I’ve shown where I crossed it recently but there’s no guarantee that this is still a good place. The only reasonably guaranteed option for a dry crossing is to walk to the tarn and cross there.

The Ascent of Tarn Crag

On the other side of the beck the path from the tarn to Far Easedale is very well marked; the path to the top of Tarn Crag is off from this. There are a couple of ascending paths in this area, the one that we are going to follow is nearer to Far Easedale and follows the line of the ridge.

The path is a ridge walk to the top of Tarn Crag, it’s quite visible on the ground and there aren’t any other routes crossing before the summit.

There are plenty of views on either side of the ridge, but the ones down into Easedale are particularly dramatic.

Once you reach the summit make sure you have a good look around to take in the views either side of the ridge.

Tarn Crag to Codale Head

The route from Tarn Crag summit to Codale Head isn’t very clear, there are several paths crossing the area and some of them aren’t particularly distinctive. Birkett recommends following the line of an old iron fence, but that’s no longer very visible though it can be seen in places.

If visibility is reasonably good you should be able to see the recognisable summit of Sergeant Man from near the summit of Tarn Crag; the summit of Codale Head is to the right from this perspective. As long as you stay near to the top of what is now a quite wide ridge you should be able to find the summit.

On a poor visibility day it’s time to exercise your map reading skills.

Codale Head to Sergeant Man

From the summit of Codale Head the top of Sergeant Man is a short wander around the edge of a basin with an unnamed tarn. There are routes around both sides.

On most days you should be able to see Sergeant Man from Codale Head, it’s the triangular shaped peak which is likely to have someone stood on top of it.

If you wanted to stop for refreshments at any point, the summit of Sergeant Man is a great place to do it; there are great views.

Sergeant Man to Easedale Tarn

The route down from Sergeant Man is to head towards Blea Rigg and take a left hand path down towards Easedale Tarn.

The path you want is at a bit of a crossroads and it would be quite easy to carry on to Blea Rigg, or even to head off the other side to Stickle Tarn, so a bit of care is required.

The lower parts of this path have needed some restoration and it is stepped which can make for harder walking particularly when it’s wet.

The walk down into Easedale gives glorious views of the surrounding crags, Codale Tarn and Easedale Tarn. You’ll pass Belles Knott which Birkett refers to as “The Matterhorn of Easedale”, a name christened by Alfred Wainwright. The name derives from its shape but you’ll need to look behind you to see the similarity.

Easedale Tarn to Grasmere

Easedale Tarn is another great place to stop for refreshments; even when busy there’s something quite tranquil about it.

Heading down from Easedale Tarn follow the route along the righthand side of Easedale Beck, this is the path to Sourmilk Gill and will take you to Easedale Road past the Quaker House, through Grasmere village and on to your vehicle, if you have one, at Red Bank Car Park.

Alternatives and Extensions

This walk takes you most of the way up High Raise which makes this a reasonable extension. While adding another tick, it’s not really adding much interest and we traverse High Raise on other routes, but don’t let me put you off.

This walk uses the same path into and out of Easedale. Alternatively, use Far Easedale via the footbridge at Stythwaite Steps on your way in. This route would be preferable during times when river levels are high and finding a stepping-stone route across Easedale Beck is unlikely. You can also use this route down by traversing Easedale Beck at the tarn stepping-stones, turning the walk into a figure-of-eight.

Another alternative when river levels are high, is to walk all the way up to Easedale Tarn and traverse the river there. It’s still stepping-stones, but they are good sized ones.

If you are going to traverse Easedale Beck as high as the tarn you might also like to try the alternative route to the summit of Tarn Crag that goes up from the north side of the tarn. This path is less well defined than the one along the East Ridge and steeper, but sometimes that’s where the fun is.

There’s an option to extend the latter stages in this walk by visiting Blea Rigg; continuing on the ridge for a while longer on your way down from Sergeant Man. Blea Rigg is part of another Birkett route – Silver How along the Langdale Edge | LAN 3.