Vegetarian – Graham Chastney

Graham’s Guidelines: * Rating (1 to 5)

Coffee: 4*
Food: 4*
Conversation: 5*
People Watching: 4*

The Experience

Over recent weeks we’ve been reacquainting ourselves with an old friend.

I can’t remember what occasion first brought us to Chesters by the River but it would have been somewhere in the later part of the 1980s. Since that time Chesters has stayed on our list of much loved places.

The cafe is situated at Skelwith Bridge next to the River Brathay part way between Ambleside and Coniston.

On a fine day the decking overlooking the river, which is normally enveloped in the sounds of running water, is hard to beat as a location. When the weather is more inclement the inside is warm and cozy.

Chesters has always been famous for its cakes, there have been many occasions when we’ve only ordered one cake between the two of us. The varying flavours of fruit scone are a particular triumph, I loved the blackberry one I had recently.

The savouries are delightful, we particularly like the salad bowls, they are always interesting. The menu changes from day-to-day as the seasons change. It’s worth noting here that Chesters by the River is vegetarian so don’t expect the classic brunch fare, do expect wonderful flavours.

Sounds great? Why are we having to reacquaint ourselves?

Chesters by the River is a Lake District classic, it’s on many people’s list of “must visit” places, and that makes it popular. Or, to put it another way, that makes it busy.

There are a couple of small car parks at the cafe which are regularly full during the Lake District busy periods. Alternative car parking requires a walk. When it’s really busy you can expect to queue to get a table and then queue again to order food.

Like many of the Lake District’s eating places Chesters has experienced several bouts of staffing issues. On a recent trip there was a note saying that they weren’t serving hot food because of it. This issue isn’t unique to Chesters, the whole of the Lake District struggles to find people who can afford to live and work in the National Park. For Chesters I’m aware that this has been one of the driving factors behind several reconfigurations of their offering.

All of this means that we tend to prefer other places during the busy summer and school holiday periods, we then reacquaint ourselves with Chesters once that’s all diminished.

Chesters by the River is a great people watching location, all sorts of interesting people have found it. There are many walking people; perhaps a few too many dog walkers on some days. There’s always been an arty edge to the people who frequent the balcony.

Next to the cafe is a shop which has a combination of mainly Cumbrian gift and household items. It’s also worth a browse.

Nearby Graham’s Walks

A short distance upstream from Chesters by the River is Skelwith Force waterfall which is, itself, worth a visit, particularly when the river is in spate. I’m not going to write a guide for this because it would be one instruction: follow the river upstream from Chesters by the River.

There’s also a circular walk of Elterwater that includes the cafe, but I’ve not written that one up yet.