Category: Graham’s Walks

Rydal and Loughrigg Terrace Circular | Graham’s Guides

An all-year-round favourite with glorious views and plenty of other interest.

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance4.3 miles
DifficultyModerate
Map🗺️
GPX📁
Graham’s Cafe?No
Swim?Yes

We start this walk from the Pelter Bridge Car Park at the southern/easterly end of Rydal Water near to the village. Pelter Bridge is one of the Lake Districts smaller places to leave your vehicle and can often be full. As an alternative I’ve included instructions when starting from either White Moss Carp Park or Rydal Water Car Park. These car parks are bigger but can also get full.

My walking guides tend not to take you step-by-step through your journey, I prefer to give you an outline of where to go, then make the mapping information available. If you just have the words below I can’t guarantee that I haven’t missed something important.

The first part of this walk takes us along the former quarry tracks up to Rydal Cave. Simply head up the road that you’ve just driven on to get to the car park and carry on once you get to the gate at the end. Just after the gate you’ll get your first view across Rydal Water (the header image). You may, at this point, start to feel something poetic building inside you, if you do you wouldn’t be the first. The village of Rydal was the favourite home of the acclaimed poet William Wordsworth, his family, and his sister Dorothy, who deserves far more acclaim than she receives.

Dorothy Wordsworth’s Journals, many written in Rydal and Grasmere, are wonderfully poetic:

After tea we rowed down to Loughrigg Fell, visited the white foxglove, gathered wild strawberries, and walked up to view Rydale. We lay a long time looking at the lake; the shores all dim with the scorching sun. The ferns were turning yellow, that is, here and there one was quite turned. We walked round by Benson’s wood home. The lake was now most still, and reflected the beautiful yellow and blue and purple and grey colours of the sky.

Dorothy Wordsworth

(I don’t know when Rydale became Rydal, other than to note it was at some point after the early 1800s which is when Dorothy was writing.)

You’ll see from this vantage point that there is a path running alongside the lake, we are coming back that way, for now we are going to head up to Rydal Caves keeping left on the higher path.

There is one very famous cave directly on this route which you can go into with ease, but before that there are a few smaller caves which are more challenging to get into. One of the smaller caves used to have a drum kit inside it which sounded amazing. It’s been a while since I’ve been in that cave, as it now requires a rope to get in, so can’t confirm whether the drum kit is still there.

These caves are the result of slate mining and as you work your way along this lane and into the vast cathedral space it is worth remembering that this was a place of noisy, dusty, dangerous toil.

The Lake District is littered with various mines and quarries, the area wouldn’t be the same without them. This is a land shaped by people.

Having stepped inside the large cave and taken in the view and the acoustics, it’s time to carry on along the side of Rydal Water towards Grasmere. I love the views of Nab Scar towering over the diminutive Rydal Water from this elevated position.

As you near the end of Rydal Water there is a fork in the path where you should continue to take the higher option. This path will take you around the corner onto Loughrigg Terrace with elevated views across Grasmere including Helm Crag (also known as the Lion and the Lamb) and Dunmail Riase (remembering the last king of Cumbria who is reportedly buried below the cairn near to the top).

Carry on along Loughrigg Terrace to the end and into the woods. You need to go through one gate at the end of the path and then a slight right through another gate into Red Bank Wood. This is a gentle walk through established trees marking the seasons by their attire.

Eventually you’ll reach a cottage next to the road between Grasmere and Loughrigg Tarn. At the entrance to the driveway for the cottage there is a path to the right which cuts back through the woods heading downhill and on to the lakeside path below Loughrigg Terrace. The beach here is a great place for a swim but can get a bit crowded.

On leaving the beach you’ll come to a wooden footbridge across the stream. You have a choice here, the route I’ve provided takes you along the southern edge of the stream this path can be flooded when the river is high, but rarely. It can also be a bit uneven. If you prefer something a bit more even, you can cross the bridge take a right hand turn on the other side and follow the path along the other side of the river. Both paths meet at a metal bridge.

The metal bridge is where you’d join the route if you’ve parked at either White Moss or Rydal Water car parks.

From the metal bridge head through the woods up the hill until you reach a gate. Through the gate turn left and along the path by the wall. You should be able to see Rydal Water ahead of you. Walk along this path all the way to the other end of the lake. There are several places to swim along this part of the route, it’s also a great place to practice your skimming, there are plenty of flat stones available.

As you near the end of the lake you’ll notice the gate that you came through on your way to the cave higher up on your right. We are going to go through the lower gate. This route takes you through some more woods and along the river where you’ll get views of the boathouse which is a classic Lake District photo opportunity. Soon you’ll come to a footbridge, don’t go over the bridge but head right and up the hill through some woods and onto the car park road. You’ll reach the car park road via a small gate; the car park is down the hill to your left.

There are several variations to this walk:

As hinted a couple of times you can start this route from White Moss Carp Park or Rydal Water Car Park. There are a few reasons why you may choose to do this, the first being parking. The second is access to a toilet which can be found in the woods between White Moss and Rydal Water car parks. The third reason being access to refreshments; there is normally a pop-up coffee van by the side of the stream near to the toilets.

You can extend the walk a bit near the end. Instead of turning right up onto the car park road you can turn left across the footbridge, from there you can cross the road into the village. In the village there are several places of interest.

Almost directly opposite the exit from the footbridge is Dora’s Field which is full of daffodils in the spring. The daffodils were planted as a memorial to one of the Wordsworth’s daughters who died aged 43 of tuberculosis. Dora’s Field has a gate into the church grounds, both the grounds and the church are lovely with even more Wordsworth associations. Up the hill from the church is Rydal Mount where the Wordsworth family lived for a while.

As you go up the hill, before Rydal Mount there is an entrance to the ground of Rydal Hall. The hall is a Christian retreat, but the grounds are open to the public where there are several walks and gardens to explore. Within the ground is one of the Lake District’s most photographed waterfalls with The Grot alongside it. The Grot is a great place to spend some time in quiet. Swimming is not permitted in the waterfall.

Within the grounds of Rydal Hall is the Old School Room Tea Shop which we’ve visited several times and always had great food, but haven’t visited for a while and hence it’s not currently included in Graham’s Cafes.

There are a couple of Graham’s Cafe’s nearby, last time we did this walk we ventured to Lucia’s Coffee + Bakehouse in Grasmere.

Another option on this walk is to follow the Coffin Trail along the other shore back to your car, I’m going to cover that route as a whole new guide.

The view across Rydal Water towards Grasmere
The view across Rydal Water towards Grasmere
Inside the cave
Inside the cave
The view from the start of Loughrigg Terrace towards Grasmere Village
The view from the start of Loughrigg Terrace towards Grasmere Village
The view across Grasmere towards Dunmail Raise
The view across Grasmere towards Dunmail Raise
A frozen Rydal Water towards Nab Scar
A frozen Rydal Water towards Nab Scar
The Daffodils of Dora’s Field

Loughrigg Tarn Circular from Skelwith Bridge | Graham’s Guides

A wonderful walk, fabulous views and one of the best outdoor swim spots in the country.

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance2.5 miles
DifficultyModerate
Map🗺️
GPX📁
Graham’s CafeChesters by the River

I like to plan walks with a reward half-way around, in today’s walk that reward is the opportunity to swim in a beautiful tranquil tarn.

We start this walk in Skelwith Bridge. If you can, park on the Langdale road (B5343) near to the Skelwith Bridge Hotel. There’s also the option of using the car park another 0.4 mile further up the road or some spaces in the ground of the old slate-works. Don’t park in the hotel car park, or in the Chesters by the River car park.

This is one of those walks where to get a parking space you have to understand the rhythm of tourism in the Lake District. If you arrive on a sunny day in the middle of the morning through to the middle of the afternoon you aren’t likely to be able to park, especially if it’s a school holiday or a weekend. You may be fortunate, but you can’t rely upon it. Arrive earlier, or later, than that and you’ll have a much better chance of getting parked, these are also the times with the best light and hence the best views.

For us this is either an early morning walk with lunch back at Chesters by the River, or it’s an afternoon, into the evening, walk with a picnic tea.

We normally take our time on this walk, it’s a tramp, it’s not a route-march.

Opposite the Skelwith Bridge Hotel is a kissing gate with an easily identifiable path up the hill to another gate. Here the path is more narrow and uneven, it’s only for a short distance but is the reason I mark this route as Moderate. There’s something soothing about walking in the dappled light of a wood especially when the birds are singing.

Soon you’ll come out into the Neaum Crag holiday park where the route through is reasonably well marked. You are heading straight across, past the pool and up the hill which veers to the left. This is where, in the winter, this walk can get a bit icy.

At the top of the hill there’s another gate out into open countryside. Soon you’ll be rewarded with views of Loughrigg Fell and the Langdales in the distance followed shortly afterwards by views of the tarn. In the spring you’ll be greeted by Bluebells, in the summer by Bracken. The path traverses a bank, downwards towards the road past a quintessentially Lake District farm at Loughrigg Fold.

Once you’ve reached the road follow it to the left for a short distance before you arrive at a stile on the right. The path around the lake is quite clear here, across the field, through another gate, across another field right alongside the tarn.

If you are planning to swim there are numerous options here, some have shade, some in the open. The further round you go the better your view across the tarn and back towards the Langdales. These views are particularly magical at sunset. A favourite swimming spot for many is marked by a lone tree that bends out over the tarn.

In the spring and early summer, Cuckoos and Woodpecker can often be heard in the woods nearby. The Waterlillies are gorgeous in the summer and so is the cruely named Bogbean.

Fortunately, this place of beauty is remote enough to avoid being overcrowded. We’ve never been when it has resembled the more popular tourist locations just a few miles down the road. There are often a few other groups, but each of them respecting the tranquillity of the place.

Please note that you aren’t allowed to take craft or inflatables onto the tarn, this isn’t Bowness.

Once you’ve finished your swim, picnic, yoga, contemplations, or whether it is you do in such a place, continue on the path towards a small gate in the fence by the lane. Through the gate turn right. Take the lane around to the road, and then the road back to Loughrigg Fold. The road is generally quiet, but please remember, you are sharing the space with vehicles.

From Loughrigg Fold retrace your route up the lane, into Neaum Cragg Holiday Park and eventually back down to your vehicle.

There are some variations on this walk:

If you have parked in the car park below Neaum Crag, you can take a different path up and over to the tarn. This path brings you down to Loughrigg Fold from where the route is the same as above. Alternatively, you can cross the road and down onto the Elterwater path. If you take a left you can follow the river down towards the waterfalls at Skelwith Force and into the slate-works, from where you can join the path as described. The waterfalls are worth a visit at any time, but especially if the river is high.

If you just want do a circuit of the tarn without all the uphill and downhill bits there are a few car parking spaces just at the point beyond Loughrigg Fold where the path crosses the field. There are only a few and please park sensibly.

You could also extend your walk just a very small amount by incorporating a visit to Chesters by the River, a long time Lake District favourite.

You could massively extend the walk by adding in a trip to the top of Loughrigg Fell but that would make it a completely different walk with a different name.

Header Image: Loughrigg Tarn looking up toward Loughrigg Fell.

Loughrigg Tarn
Loughrigg Tarn
Loughrigg Fell from Loughrigg Tarn
Loughrigg Tarn

Brockholes Circular from Preston Crematorium | Graham’s Guides

Does a crematorium feel like a strange place to start a walk?

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance4 miles
DifficultyModerate
Map🗺️
GPX 📁

Most days I enjoy walking straight from my front door. There are plenty of options for a morning walk and getting in a car to go somewhere feels an unnecessary complication. Also, where I live, the main road can become a slow moving carpark making movement slow and frustrating – which is somewhat counter to the purpose of going for a walk.

There are some days, though, when I want to mix things up a bit and this little walk is a very short drive for a welcome change of scenery.

Brockholes is a local Wildlife Trust Nature Reserve situated in a former sand-pit. At one side it is enclosed by the River Ribble, along another side it’s the M6, around two other sides are wooded banks. Through the middle runs the Guild Wheel which also provides us with the pathway for the start of this walk.

Brockholes is worth a visit with its floating visitor village, play area, wildlife hides and country walks. It’s easily accessible off J31 of the M6. The only charge is to park and as this walk start by parking elsewhere that doesn’t apply. Because of that I would encourage you to think about how you might contribute financially to the nature reserve.

(Note: There is also a Brockhole (without the ‘s’) between Windermere and Ambleside, don’t get the two confused.)

My walk starts at Preston Crematorium which is accessed via a long tree-lined drive off Longridge Road. Part way along the drive is a small carpark on outward side of the road, followed by another small carpark on the inward side. Park in the outward side carpark if you can, the path runs alongside.

Note: The driveway to the crematorium has gates and they are closed in an evening. There are different opening times for Winter and Summer. Please make sure that you check that you will be able to get your car out at the end of your walk. There is always a notice at the gate and one at the start of the path, the opening times are also on the web site.

At the start of the path, we are on the Guild Wheel which is nicely tarmacked for cyclists and pedestrians alike. This is a shared path, and you should expect to see cyclists.

There is some historical interest in this area. The walk starts in the grounds of the former Red Scar House, home of one William Cross who also helped to model Winckley Square in Preston. The house is long gone, having been demolished in 1939, but you can still see the basic outline of the grounds in the trees that remain. The adjacent industrial estate, for which the house was demolished, then became Courtaulds Red Scar Works one of the largest producers of rayon in Britain and employing 4,000 people. The Courtaulds days came to an end in 1979, but local people still refer to as by that name.

From the carpark, I follow the Guild Wheel through the woods, across some more open land towards Red Scar Woods. It’s springtime and the trees are in full leaf, but I can still catch glimpses of the River Ribble, and the Ribble Valley views beyond.

The tarmacked section eventually runs out just about where there’s a fork in the path. I take the path to the left alongside the woods and then, eventually, into the woods and down the hill. The hill is moderately steep and can be slippery.

At the bottom of the hill, I take a path off to the left towards the river. The river is tidal at this point and different every time. Depending on the time of year this is a great place to see kingfisher, sand-martins and various other waterfowl. On this occasion it’s too early for the sand-martin and no blue flash of a kingfishers either. I’m still hoping to see an otter.

There’s something therapeutic about walking alongside water, it’s flowing gently today. The river can flood here and needs to be treated with respect.

You can walk alongside the river all the way into Preston, but I only go as far as the entrance to the nature reserve, continuing to the right alongside the M6.

One evening I stood for several minutes watching a barn owl hunting in this section. They are magical to watch, silently, effortlessly flapping and gliding then suddenly dropping like a stone. I take a short diversion to sit in one of the hides overlooking the ponds, the ponds are a great place to watch Starling murmuration. The starlings don’t always nest in the same place, so you do need to track them down.

I steadily work my way back to the bottom of the hill, then it’s back to the top and along the woods to the car. In the early spring the wooded bank that I came down and need to climb are adorned with bluebells, this wood is also a wonderful place to see the local deer.

There are a few variations to this walk:

The route outlined skirts around the edge of the reserve, if you want to see the visitor village where there are toilets and a cafe, there are several places where you can branch off.

If you do branch off to the visitor village there are several other hides to explore. One of the hides is regularly visited by a local Kestrel, known as Kevin, who is happy to show off their hunting prowess.

At the start of the walk there are several options to walk through the woods before you go down the banking. Some of these are more arduous than others but will give you better views of the panorama when the leaves are on the trees.

You can also drive into the nature reserve, park up, and explore from there. This is an especially useful option if you are looking for a walk without a hill.

Header Image: The view across the Ribble on a misty morning.

Rossall Beach Promenade | Graham’s Guides

Is there anything quite like a walk along a windy beach?

Graham’s Walks📌
Distance5.2 miles
DifficultyEasy
OS Maps Route🗺️
GPX📁

Here in the UK we like a seaside promenade on a sunny day, taking in the blue skies and sea.

However, the British weather is never guaranteed, which means we are conditioned to be just as happy walking along a windy promenade on a cloudy day with the white capped waves careering into the sands. It was precisely these conditions that greeted me as I parked in the promenade car park at Rossall Beach on a recent Sunday afternoon.

There are several places to walk along the Fylde coast each with their own charms. The charm of Rossall Beach is that it’s a quiet sandy beach where you get great views across to Morecambe Bay to the Lake District and even as far as the Isle of Man. If you want fish-and-chip shops, ice-cream parlours and amusement arcades you need to be a few miles further south. Rossall Beach is more rural, although also, almost suburban.

From the Rossall Beach promenade car park I head north along the beach taking in the changing skies and relishing in the occasional burst of sunshine sparkling off the Irish Sea. I’m conscious that the wind is on my back and that, at some point, I am going to need to turn around and walk directly into it. The tide is on its way out and there’s ample firm sand to walk on. It’s a shorts and jumpers day.

I’ve set myself the target of getting to the Rossall Point Observation Tower, to give it it’s Sunday name, about 2.5 miles (about 4 km) away. This rather strange structure has various uses including a public observatory. There are also public toilets here.

Part way along I pass Rossall School a place of education since 1844. The buildings are from a different time to everything that surrounds them making it look strangely out of place even though it was here first.

The weather continues to change as I enjoy the scenery, there are a few other people around, but this isn’t a day where the beach is full. I don’t think I’ve ever seen the beach flooded with people here, that’s part of the joy of the place it’s easy to get to but it also feels isolated.

Having reached the tower it’s time to head back facing into the strengthening wind. It looks like the weather may turn to rain so I choose the promenade for my return. There has been lots of work on the sea defenses in recent years including the integration of paths, boulder groins, various seating options and art installations. There’s also areas set aside for nature on the onshore side of the defences forming the Larkholme Grasslands. I particularly like the Sea Swallow sculptures forming part of the Mythic Coast project.

This is a great place for a sunset, not that there is going to be one on this particular day the cloud is thickening fast.

I’m passed by various joggers and cyclists many of whom have the look of people rapidly heading for a safe haven. One young man passes me in short-shorts and a vest top, muscles pumped. He’s in fully Rocky mode punching away at some invisible opponent. He stops not far in-front of me and proceeds to go through a routine of upper-cuts, hooks and jabs, then continues his run. He’s carrying a portable speaker that’s proving musical accompaniment.

Having returned to the car park I look at the houses with views of the sea, that also overlooking the expanse of cars. There are always at least one of them for sale and it’s become obligatory to look them up on Rightmove. Views of the Irish Sea come at a premium.

There are a few variations you can make to this walk.

If you start the walk a bit further south at Jubilee Gardens you can visit the Sea Ogre and take pictures of Mary’s Shell. If you are a Star Wars fan you can stand in part of the set at FBKafe which featured in the Andor spin-off.

At the far end of the walk you can choose to walk a bit further and take in the events at the boating lake.

Part way back from the observation tower, you can choose to head inland and make your way via the Larkholme Grasslands. This can make for a less windy return.

You can, also, make the walk to the Observation Tower much shorter by starting at the Rossall Point car park heading south.

Header Image: This is the view of the observation tower from the beach.